Excellent Customer Service - The Tuners Group

I've been thinking to ditch my airbag steering wheel and get something proper like the Momo Corse Model 78 I was using on my previous car together with a quick release boss. Or maybe my carbon fetish will lead me to a Reverie pre-preg carbon steering wheel as used by the WRC teams? Nothing beats a proper "race" oriented steering wheel for feel.

I wanted a proper Works Bell shortened steering boss as using one with a longer length together with the Rapfix II meant my fingers couldn't reach the indicator and light stalks without me reaching forward.

Now the problem here is the N16 is not exactly available in Japan. I contacted The Tuners Group in Australia as they claim to offer the Rapfix II cheaper than retail in sushi land. I initially didn't hope for much but after exchanging some data for my car including the proper chassis designation for the equivalent model in Japan (The Bluebird Sylphy G10) they actually found the correct boss kit for my car and put in on their online web shop. So much better than the typical "I'm sorry but we do not have an application for your car as it is not sold in Japan" response. A big thumbs up!

Will blog more later after I order the short boss and Rapfix II.

Clutch Hose Evolution

Piccie from Bro Mugil on my evolved clutch hose with shorter hose length and alloy AN end fittings which he sourced for me from Down Under. Unfortunately only one end (the banjo end) is avail in aluminium. I think I am suffering from OCD :)

My Rims and Tyres are for Sale!

OK. This is it! I've decided to go for 17 inchers and selling my Gram Lights and tyres. Details of my rims/wheels here. My tyres are Michelin Pilot Sport 3s in 205-50 16" size. Tyres have been used for only 5000km+ only. I can sell the rims and tyres separate. Serious enquiries you know how to reach me. No low ballers please.

Larger Wheels - Work Emotion CR Kai

Another wheel available for my PCD and wheel lug configuration, the famed Work Emotion CR Kai. These are now low pressure cast and no longer forged. About a kilo heavier than a FN01R-C for 17" X 7" and more expensive unfortunately. Looks great though.

Larger Wheels

I'm starting to think if I should go to larger wheels or rims to contain the power that I'm building the Slowtra to produce (>2 times)? I really hate wheelspin as all that energy and power is wasted in heat, smoke and noise. I'm thinking if I should go for 215-45 series tyres on 17" X 8" or even fatter tyres on 17" X 9" wheels? This should clear the big brakes nicely too. On the other hand there are also camps advocating stretched tyres for a stiffer sidewall feeling.

The problem is N16 comes with fashion obsolete 4 lug 114.3mm PCD. While this might have been fashionable more than ten years ago when the likes of Evo 1-3 roams the streets nowadays all 114.3 PCD are 5 lugs. What this means is that most rims are meant for that configuration. Thinking if I should convert to get the wheel I want? The 114.3 PCD 4 lug option is extremely limited but here is one nice example still in the market. 5Zigen's FN01R-C "Hot Version". The are relatively light for a cast wheel but I still dream about forged Rays TE37s.

So my choices are stick with what I have (16" X 7" Rays Gram Lights), go for larger sizes and convert to 5 lug or stick with my current wheel mount config and get something like the FN01R-Cs. What do you think? I know what some of my close brothers will say :P

Brake Master Cylinder Breakthrough!

Remember my horror and disgust on finding the puny size of my brake master cylinder? Well the good news is I've found the correct part number courtey Nissan 4U.com. Now I just have to bite the bullet, source, order then hope it fits and works. Cap Saw says its a 99% bolt-on!

Part number for Nabco 15/16" Non-ABS brake master cylinder is 460105M422. Check your master cylinder properly to ensure it is a Nabco. Nissan uses two BMC suppliers - Nabco and Tokico. The parts between both makes are NOT interchangeable.

Slowtra's Rear Brake Pad

I've completed my rear brake pad research and ordered my rear pads. Picture below of  my rear brake pad's backing plate complete with noise reduction shim.

The brake pad I'm using is different from regular TCM N16 1.6 SG-L and XG-L Sentras. Thanks to Nissan parts sharing the brake pad is the exactly the same as the USDM B15 Sentra SE-R with SR20DE engine and the famed JN15 Pulsar VZR N1. Brake pad drawing courtesy of Hawk (Pad Shape HB421)

and Endless (Pad Shape EP263). Measuring my stock pad with a vernier caliper confirmed the dimensions.

Sharing the same brake pad with a performance car has its merits. For one there are lots of brake pad options. Endless lists the following compounds for the EP263 - SNP, NS97, SS-Y, SS-M and CCA.

And what about the local disc brake Slowtras? I believe it should be this pad shape from my eye balling. Pls note that this is from eye balling only as I did not have the opportunity to dismantle the rear brake pad of local TCM Slowtras for measurements and verification.

This pad is apparently also the same as a Mazda RX8. The total pad surface area is slightly less than my pad as the max height is ~3.5mm less.

So did I get Endless or Hawk or? I'll save that for another story when my brake pad arrives

BorgWarner EFR Snail

Those of you whom know me well will know I am an "NA Bagus" kaki. However this new turbine is making me excited about turbocharging something which I've not been for a long long time. Very excited. More details here:

http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarner-efr-turbos.html
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1750/borgwarner-efr-turbo-feature-set.aspx

The EFR is claimed to be the most responsive and fastest spooling snail in its range. Bye bye turbo lag..

Slower-Phy?

I had a chance to take some quick snap shots of the Sylphy when I was @ TCEAS doing my rear disc brake and beam conversion. This is what happens when the major criteria in a car's design is NVH, comfort, cost and less cost.

The G11 Sylphy rear beam. The much maligned Scott-Russell lateral link fitted to the N16/G10/B15 is MIA which is a good thing for starters. The beam, arms and shock absorber mounts are all in one piece and integral with the beam. Can't do much here in terms of adding aftermarket anti-roll bars and chassis bars. Any upgrade on stiffness would mean upgrading the entire beam assembly. Ouch!

The lines in blue are hydraulic brake lines. Closeup of the hydraulic brake lines. The trailing arms have a bend so Nissan had to mount the brake lines on the straight beam itself.

Holy cut-outs on the beam Batman! Got flex?

No these are not reversed super aero brake cooling ducts but merely the platform to locate the rear coil springs and damper/shock absorber.  The Sylphy is the only current market 2 litre car still on rear drum brakes. Some 1.5 litre cars have better rear disc brakes.

Here's an ESM picture of the G11 rear beam and suspension. Don't ask me where I got it from :)

These are bout the pictures I managed to take. Other "interesting" design decisions include: PCD denoted Pitch Circle Diameter and is the distance between 2 opposite wheel or rim lugs and is a good indication of wheel bearing size and hub or upright stiffness. The Japs have settled for 2 sizes. 100mm PCD 4 bolt pattern for smaller cars (A and B segment ie. Myvi, Vios, City)  and 114.3mm PCD with 5 bolt pattern for larger C and D segment cars (Civic, Altis, Lancer, Accord). The 2 litre Sylphy is approaching D segment in size but uses the 100mm PCD 4 bolt pattern. Erm. Obviously the designers are not worried about caliper piston knock pad under performance or track driving conditions. Stop Tech has a good explanation on what piston knock back is here.

And finally (I forgot to take a picture but you can check it out on the web or better still go ask a TCM salesman. I am very interested in the answer) the Sylphy's speedo goes to only 190km/h max. JDM meters on a Bolehland car? I find it hard to believe. When I asked my TCEAS technician he just shrugged his shoulders and mentioned "CVT". You make the judgement. I admire the frankness and honesty.

Interestingly Impul in Japan (not the MYDM ripoff) has a 170hp engine package including throttle body, cams, pistons and even ECU upgrades. You read it from me first here. :) While the MR20DE engine like any other modern 2 litre engine shouldn't have an issue with such a power output I would really like to see how the flexi, truck like suspension and CVT gearboxed Sylphy cope with the additional power and stress. The brakes are also going to have a field day! As I mentioned in an earlier post, what a crying shame from the same company that spawned the 200ps 1.6 Pulsar VZR N1, Skylines, Sylvias and now R35 GTR. Bolehland Nissan performance driving enthusiasts deserve a better car!

MYDM N16 Manual Transmission Horror!

I mentioned in an earlier post that the Slowtra's gearbox model is the RS5F70A. This is because the European Nissan Almera N16 ESM (Electrical Service Manual) states this particular gearbox for both QG16 and QG18 engines. Well I was Wrong!!! At least for our dear Bolehland domestic market 1.6 manual Slowtras. Here's why I say so.

Picture below of RS5F70A gearbox from Euro N16 FSM

Picture below of the RS5F30A gearbox used by Euro N16 Almera 1.3, 1.5s and the Proton Saga BLM. Yes the Proton Saga uses this same gearbox.  Don't believe so? Check here.

Below are actual pictures of my gearbox.

Here's a hint. Count the number of bolts on the case cover (red box). The RS5F70A has only 5 bolts. The RS5F30A has 6 bolts. My gearbox has 6 bolts. Does this mean my car uses the 30A gearbox? Well I'm still not sure but having seen lots of pictures online of 70A boxes I'm 101% sure it definitely ain't the 70A. The number of strengthening ribs around the driveshaft appears to be different from the 30A from what I can see on my box versus the ESM. Aichi Machine Industry also list another gearbox used by Sentras (not stated which model or gen though) called the F52A but that has 6 gears and is likely used by USDM B15s.

One joker in Autoworld forum even told me to go ask the technicians in TCEAS. Like I haven't asked before desperately trying the local forums. D'oh! Well the technician in the TCEAS spare parts centre which I usually go to didn't know and asked me to go ask the service technician. Which I immediately did so only to be told to go ask the spare parts centre. When I further probed the service technician he said he didn't know and that he wasn't familiar with manual Sentras. Most customers are auto! All this from the largest TCEAS in Butterworth. Err.. Think I better stop here. Oh and they (the TCEAS technicians) don't wear white uniforms. What a joke! I just wish I can get hold of the parts catalogue and ESM for MYDM TCM N16s.

So why am I so preoccupied with what gearbox I have? Well the 30A gearbox is rated to a max of 150Nm of torque and the 70A gearbox 200Nm. So you tell me which gearbox is stronger and able to withstand the rigors of positive crankcase pressure? On top of that there are plenty of LSD (no not the drug) options available for the 70A. I am now on the lookout for a good to excellent condition preloved RS5F70A gearbox. There's also the other matter of whether the 70A box and mine are sharing the same mounts. Might have to source for that too. Bummer!

Black or White? Ultra Racing Front 4 Point Lower Arm Bar and Room Bar

These arrived together with my rear beam but I simply ran out of time. Besides I didn't really dig the white powder coating. White is about the worse colour for something meant for the bottom of a car and exposed to all the road grime, dust, dirt and anything else you can think of.

The lower arm bar is as its name implies, ties the front lower arms for a more rigid assembly. So why is rigidity so important? Well anything that flexes too much including a car's chassis, bushes, tyres, etc. becomes a sort of a spring by itself except that unlike a car's suspension system this spring is uncontrollable which is not good for handling. Per Mike Kojima "The lower control arms front mount in our car (N16/B15) hangs out in space unsupported. This causes the lower control arms to move under hard cornering load causing steering inaccuracy and tire contact patch loss."

The room bar is the bar linking both the B pillars behind the front seats and also serves to improve the car's chassis rigidity.

All Ultra Racing bars are made from steel as opposed to lighter aluminium. Ultra Racing claim via its website that all brackets are 4mm to 5mm steel while hollow steel tubes and oval tubes are 1.2mm to 1.6mm thickness. Ultra Racing also claim that as steel is stronger than aluminium for the same size and thickness and that in order for aluminium allow to be as strong as steel it has to be at least double the thickness thus the weight saving is not so apparent anymore. You be the judge but I know which material I would prefer if I had the choice. Let's just say that the top Japanese manufacturers such as Okuyama Motor Sports aka Carbing offer their bars with aluminium alternative.  

I have sent my Ultra Racing bars to be painted matt black and should get them back for installation in about a week. Stay tuned.

Clutch Hose Upgrade - Installed

I had my G Spec Performance braided clutch hose installed together with my rear beam and disc brakes. The clutch hose is meant for the QR25DE but fits the QG no worries. The only difference from stock is the longer length which is not a problem. Picture below of stock clutch hose.

The airbox had to be removed to facilitate installation of the clutch hose. Picture below of the installed braided clutch hose

A teflon hose with stainless outer braid is not as flexible as a rubber hose necessitating a longer length. And make sure you properly bleed the hydraulic clutch cylinder after changing the hose. My Motul RBF600 brake fluid also doubled up as clutch hydraulic fluid. I'm thinking of sending my stock clutch hose to an AN fittings and braided hose supplier for replication complete with aluminium alloy end fittings. Any takers?

Brake Upgrade Part 1 - Rear Disc Brakes and Beam Upgrade

Going fast is not only all about building horsepower. A car will also need to be able to stop as well if it is not to turn into a flying coffin. By some strange logic TC decided to equip the second or arguably the fastest Sentra variant in Bolehland with rear drum brakes. Drums are cheap to manufacture and the brake shoes are even cheaper. However they're mostly useless for hard and performance driving on something as big and heavy as the Slowtra. I decided to upgrade the rear brakes to disc brakes as the first part of my brake upgrade.

The rear beam on drum braked N16s do not come with the mounting bosses for the disc brake caliper so to upgrade to rear disc brakes one has to either try and weld the bosses on the beam itself or source for a used beam complete with rear disc brakes. I did try the third option which was to buy everything new but TC wanted to charged me in excess of three thousand smackers just for the beam alone and we haven't even started talking about the calipers, rotors, etc. Clearly going for a used beam is the only economical option. Oh and here's what you need for a rear disc brake upgrade:

1. Rear Beam from an N16 variant complete with disc brakes (caliper, brake rotor/disc, pads, brake hoses), axles, hubs, etc. The complete assembly. Even the dust boot on the drum is different from the disc brake so hardly anything cept the some bolts are reusable. I've decided to upgrade my brake hoses to PRO-RS items. Everything else is stock Nissan
2. Rear handbrake cables. The drum and disc brakes use different handbrake cables.
3. About 1 litre of brake fluid. I'm using Motul RBF600

It took me quite some time, ok more than 2 years in my case to finally find a decent condition rear beam.  Blame that on other life priorities. TCEAS in Bayan Baru did managed to source for me a beam two years back but that didn't really fit my grade. The calipers and pads are all stock items. No point going for performance items yet as I'm on stock front brakes and upgrading to rear pads with a higher coefficient friction will just spoil the braking balance. Besides I have part two, three, etc. to write :)

Pix below of my rear beam after unpacking. Even the service centre manager helped to unpack the goods. Thank You Sir! The beam has been repainted and likewise the calipers. I choosed silver for the calipers for the oem look. Don't really dig ricey red. The long dangling things are not "tentacles" but are the handbrake cables.

I also had my "works engineer" who sourced me the beam to upgrade the stock bushes on the beam trailing arms to Superpro items. Thank You Ah Tiong (Hoong Hooi Motorsport). Ah Tiong even painted the calipers when his regular painter declined due to "too much work". The stock bushes cannot be physically removed from the beam as its shell had to be reused for the Superpro. This means using a burner or welder to burn away the bush. The shell was then spot welded to the trailing arm and the Superpro bush fitted. Pix below of the Superpro rear beam trailing arm bush.

So why all the hassle on the bushes? Picture below of the stock rear bush tells the whole story.

The stock soft bush is great for NVH as it allows for lotsa movement in all planes but this detrimentally impacts handling during hard braking and side load (cornering). The Superpro minimizes this. There is also the harder 90 durometer Superpro bush if one aspires to build and all out race car like the Dog III. I'm using the standard variant part number SPF1942K. The harder variant is SPF1942-90K. If you're interested in the bushes please contact me.

It took most of the morning to remove the stock beam. The exhaust heat shield had to be removed to access the handbrake assembly.

The PRO-RS rear braided brake hose installed to the caliper first. The mech managed to install the hose at the wrong side despite clear labels marking which side and which end. Luckily I spotted the mistake.

 
These are the ABS sensors for the rear wheel. Since the Slowtra does not have ABS these were removed. Per my TCEAS technician my beam's JDM as these use a different sensor compared to the MYDM N16 Sentra. There are two sensors (one per side) and part of the cabling is secured via brackets to the beam trailing arm.

The sensor goes here if  you're curious. I just grabbed a socket wrench quickly to help the mech to remove.

Picture below showing the drum brake beam vs the disc brake beam

The disc brake beam actually has a larger diameter compared to the drum brake beam. 65mm vs 55mm. IMHO the disc brake is able to generate more load and stress to the beam hence the need for a stiffer and stronger beam .

Picture of below of the beam installed on the Slowtra together with brake hoses.

Rear caliper and rotor.

All MYDM N16 and USDM non-Brembo equipped B15 variants run a 258mm diameter X 10mm thick solid rotors with same pad shape and size. Rear caliper has a single piston of 33.96mm. Compare this to the drum with a 203.2mm inner diameter and 17.45mm single piston. Clearly my stock 7/8" master cylinder is maxed out! Luckily brake pedal travel is not compromised and pedal feel is excellent with the PRO-RS braided brake hoses. Took quite some time to properly bleed all the brakes as I also had my front brake hoses upgraded to PRO-RS items. These might not stay too long on my car though as I have other plans for my front brakes.

Here's how the rear disc brake looks behind the wheel. Took the entire day to install and bleed the brakes. I also installed my braided clutch hose and changed the Slowtra's engine oil and oil filter.

Driving back home the improvements were immediately very obvious. The rear end felt more firm and planted. The brakes were so much better in terms of feel. Better stopping power was also noticeable. I'm not done though. I have a DBA 4000 series rear disc on order which should be arriving from Down Under in January. Have not decided on what rear pads to use yet. There's plenty of choices avail from EBC to Hawk to Carbotech so no worries there. And why am I only talking rear brakes when an FF car requires 70-80% front braking action? What about the front brakes? My front brakes pads are on its last legs but I'm not changing coz I'm planning to revamp my entire front brake config. And I mean it. Please be patient for Part Two and Three. I promise it won't take two years :)

The Cost of Inflation! PRO-RS Brake Hose Kit

I first bought the PRO-RS stainless steel teflon braided brakes lines in anticipation of a rear disk brake upgrade for the Slowtra bout 2.5 years ago. The brake lines were sold when the project stalled. I've since bought back the same hoses but the price has gone up by ~ 8%. All I can say is Ouch!

Anyway here are the latest pictures. Packaging looks exactly the same as earlier.

Two of the hoses. These are for the rears.

The hoses look very well engineered. The centre tabs are for mounting and correct routing. Incorrect routing is often the most common cause of braided brake hoses rupturing or breaking into two as the hose will rub against the shocks or wheel rim eventually leading to wear of the hose outer braid, etc. and ultimately failure. PRO-RS braided brake hoses feature a stainless steel outer braid while the hose is teflon lined. Teflon is a material that has less flex and expansion compared to rubber thus eliminating the spongy brake pedal feel. The latest specification hose feature a transparent outer plastic sleeve which should help to better protect the hose from abrasion and dirt. Each hose is labeled for correct location of mounting. Excellent feature I must say as this eliminates the blur mechanic installing the hose in an incorrect location problem

Closeup of the end fitting. This end fitting goes to the brake pipe/line on the car. The other end is a regular banjo and mounts to the caliper. PRO-RS claims that its end fittings are Trivalent chrome plating goes to further elaborate that Trivalent chrome provides a safer and environmentally acceptable alternative to traditional chroming process of Hexavalent chromium. It decreases health hazards from airbourne chromium. Waste treatment and disposal costs are reduced because the process uses no Hexavalent chromium, no additives with strong oxidants, and has an extremely low metal concentration which is up to 95 percent lower than Hexavalent chromium. To my eyes the plating looks better than traditional cadmium plating and looks similar to the plating used on my G Spec Performance clutch hose.

IMHO from previous experience this is really one of the best bang for buck mods you can do for your brakes. Highly recommended. Oh and why did I buy the PRO-RS braided brake hoses? Well my rear beam + disk brakes and other yummy mods have already arrived as I type this post.

Pro-Bolt 2010 catalogue

Pro-Bolt's latest catalogue is avail in softcopy via CD. The CD is posted direct to your doorstep FOC. Excellent service. For those who rather have something to read during trips to the toilet the catalogue is also available in traditional hardcopy.

Picture below of the CD. The CD contains the catalogue, price list and some pictures & logos.

The catalogue itself. Disclaimer - Extremely poisonous and will lead to a lightened wallet apart from car.

The catalogue can be found here. Pro-Bolt supplies WTCC Champions Seat Sport and Lotus Cars. They also supply Formula 3, World Rally and numerous national Rally Cross Teams throughout the world. Excellent pedigree I must say. I've ordered a full titanium bolt set for my strut bar and now contemplating if I should convert my suspension arm and brake caliper mount fasteners to Ti.

Battery Musings

I took out the battery a couple days ago to clean the tray and replace the stock bolts with some lightweight aluminium versions. The stock battery tray is held in place by 5 M8 X 25mm bolts. Pix below of stock battery tray after some cleaning. Boy was it full of sand and other road grime.

I promptly replaced the mild steel stock bolts with some aluminium items

Saves some weight and looks trick eh? But there's a problem. The stock bolts have flat hexagon heads while the aluminium bolts have socket cap heads which have a higher height and protruded from the well. This resulted in the battery and its plastic tray unable to seat properly as everything was resting on top of the 5 bolts. So I had to remove the aluminium bolts and put back the stock items. Sigh :(

Battery reinstalled with blue anodized titanium nuts. I'm currently on my second Delkor maintenance free battery. The first one lasted me close to three and a half years. Highly recommended. The Helix Cap 33 has been ditched. Anybody interested? Comes with trick real carbon mounting bracket.

This also got me thinking if I should replace the mucho heavy NS70 sized battery (>20kgs) with an Odyssey item. The Odyssey PC680 weighs 7kg only while the PC925 weighs 11.8kg but has more reserve capacity. Apart from saving lots of weight saved, the extra engine bay space reclaimed due to the smaller sized Odysseys will enable me to run something like an ITG Maxogen carbon airbox. Pix below of the stock and very restrictive resonator piping. One end leads to airbox while other end leads to the wheel arch fender.

Time to start saving more money..

Brake Dilemma

The European Nissan N16 Service Manual states the following brake specifications:

Master Cylinder Diameter: 15/16" (23.8125mm) - For QG15DE, QG18DE and YD22DD engines

I was pretty happy as 15/16" size is common to the SP and set about designing a Wilwood BBK (Big Brake Kit) along similar piston sizes as what was initially done for the SP (~1.38" diameter per piston for a 4 piston caliper). Then one day while cleaning the master cylinder on the Slowtra I saw the following embossed on the Slowtra's master cylinder - 7/8". This immediately registered horror and then disgust as 7/8" is only 22.225mm which is smaller than 15/16". If the total caliper piston area of  your upgraded BBK is too large for your master cylinder the term "pedal to the floor" will definitely ring a very painful, expensive and dangerous bell!

A quick check with the TCEAS parts center confirmed my nightmare. The MYDM N16 1.6 SG Manual comes with a smaller master cylinder compared to the SG-Lousy and 1.8 XG-L variants. Bummer! This means I would need to "upgrade" my stock master cylinder. And how much would a new master cylinder cost me? "RM1070 after discount" said the enthusiastic TCEAS technician. RM1070 just for a master cylinder!!! Once I pick myself  up from the floor I quickly said "Thanks but No Thanks" and have decided to look for an excellent condition pre-loved 15/16" or even 1" master cylinder from my regular contacts. Picture below of the Nabco master cylinder on the Slowtra. Talk about spec and cost cutting :( The N16 Service Manual also lists a Tokico master cylinder which is different so be careful what you get.

Rejections

Modifying the Slowtra is going to take a lot of customized fabrication and even more R&D than the SP due to lack of parts, interest, etc from the regular speed shops and parts makers especially in this part of the world. While this can be frustrating it is not going to deter me. Oh.. and did I mention this time I'm going positive crankcase pressure for the Slowtra? The QG engine hates to rev so a snail would be a better option. I initially played with the though of an SR16/20VE transplant but have decided to persevere with the QG. Call me a sucker for punishment.

In the meantime here are 2 rejection emails for your amusement

From Impul Japan:
Mr Andrew Saw

Thank you for your inquiry.

We are sorry but we do not have N16 Sentra in Japan so we do not have any parts set for the vehicle. We have some reinforcement parts for Bluebird Sylphy but do not know if they are installable on Sentra or not because we do not have an actual vehile to try.

We are sorry.

Best regards,
.........................................
HOSHINO IMPUL Co., LTD
Marketing and Sales Promotion
Tel: +81-(0)3-3439-1122
Fax:+81-(0)3-3439-5522
http://www.impul.co.jp/

Interestingly Impul has ECUs and even a build engine (camshafts, pistons, etc) for the Sylpy making 160hp (claimed). NA Bagus? Sylphy owners you heard this from me. But we have a Malaysian Impul Sentra right? Errr... please don't even talk about it.
 
Another rejection this time from Okada Projects USA. Okada has upgraded ignition coils called the Plasma Direct for the Toyota Vios/Yaris/Vitz so I was kinda hoping they would be able to do something for the Slowtra. Kinda wishful thinking huh?

Hello Leng,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Unfortunately we do not have any products suitable for Nissan QG18 engine and B15 Sentra.
Best Regards,

Akira Sato
OKADA PROJECTS U.S.A., Inc.
23891 Via Fabricante Suite 614
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
Tel: 949-583-7800
Fax: 949-583-7810
http://www.okadaprojects.com/