APR GTC-200 Adjustable Wing Enhancements

Made some "enhancements" to my wing. First was to replace the APR supplied fasteners with titanium equivalents. Only the side plate fasteners were stainless steel. Everything else is anti-rust plated mild steel. Managed to replace everything except the M6 40mm studs. Picture below of the titanium fasteners.

The price of Pro-Bolt titanium fasteners are getting prohibitive and they do not make mushroom shaped dome head bolts so my fasteners were actually supplied by 3 different suppliers - Pro-Bolt, Hyper Bolt and Competition Fasteners. All are from the UK though and the current conversion rate (1 GBP = 5.7 Malaysian Ringgits) is painful :(

I had the cf plates which I bought from APR cut to the shape and size I wanted. Tao did the cutting. Thanks Bro! These will be used as the base and reinforcement for the pedestal mounts.

I might cut larger base plates later. Pictures of large(r) base plates below. Pictures courtesy of APR Performance FB site. What do you think?

Had the wing PPS Teflon coated by the good guys @ Shine Guard. This should help keep the wing in tip top condition throughout its working life on Sharkie. Did this out of necessity as the clear coat on the Mine's wing (especially the side plates) would fade only after a couple years despite constant TLC waxing.

The wing and rear boot lid is currently at the paint shop for installation and painting. Yes, I decided to buy a brand new boot lid vs getting a used one. Cost me RM 960 just for the boot. Can't wait to see the finished article..

New Wiper Arms and PIAA Aero Vogue Silicone Windscreen Wipers

Decided on new replacements for my windscreen wiper arms as the current ones were beginning to look a bit jaded aesthetically thought function wise still perfect. Why not repaint or powder coat some might ask? Well, a brand new set from TCEAS cost less than RM 88 so I don't see the point of repainting unless you want to save a couple tens of ringgit. Picture below of the old arm on passenger side.I have already touched up the faded section with a paint pen once but it doesn't last. Wiper and arms are always exposed to the elements and lead a hard life.

Wiper is a Bosch Aerotwin which is the best wiper I've used to-date. Best to me means less noise and still wipes the windscreen clean after a year or more of use. The Aerotwin I used lasted me more than 2 years. Picture below of the new wiper arms.

The part numbers. The reason the labels stated "Tan Chong" instead of "Nissan" is probably because the arms are made in Bolehland.

For this round I've decided to try some PIAA silicone wipers which Bro Mugil highly recommends after using on the SP. I was initially looking for the Forza Hybrid  or Vera which is PIAA's top range wiper but could not find any available anywhere in Penang. Only managed to find the next best wiper in PIAA's range which is the Aero Vogue in Neuton so bought a pair for RM190. Pix below of the Aero Vogue.

Close up of the aero cover.

Part numbers below. Remember, N16s use 16" (driver) and 12" (passenger) wipers.

PIAA claims the Aero Vogue is a hybrid type wiper. To me it just looks like a conventional wiper with an aerodynamic fairing/cover. The aero cover per PIAA reduces chatter and lift at high speed. If you have ever used wipers long term @ speeds in excess of 120km/h you'll know what lift means. The lift reduces the wiping efficiency of your wipers rendering some wipers practically ineffective at high speeds. The new aero cover features "Pass Through" technology (some holes/slots on the cover. Sounds simple but the trick is the position, size and shape of the slots) which greatly reduces blade chatter and lift at high speeds. PIAA also claims it's silicone technology reduces surface tension causing water to repel from the windscreen for streak free and quiet operation.

Installation of the arms including testing took bout 15-20 min. Removal of the old arms took longer than the install. PIAA provides clear diagrams on the wiper packaging for an idiot proof installation.

Like many other JDM parts nowadays the PIAAs are fully or partly made in you know where..

Picture of the new arms and PIAA wipers installed.

The aero "Pass Through" tech slots.

The PIAA have quietly gone about doing an excellent job so far but I've yet to test it's high speed effectiveness. Whether or not they last as long as the Bosch Aero Twins also remains to be seen. I'll report in due time.

APR GTC-200 Adjustable Wing Here!

I've been in communication with both Voltex and APR the past year on a proper (aero downforce wise) rear wing for Sharkie. In the end I made the decision to purchase the APR GTC-200 because as the smallest wing in APR's GTC range it is ok aero effect wise for a non-widebody Sharkie. Being not so large helps with the cost and resulting hole in the wallet too. To put things in perspective my GTC-200 (60.5 inches or 1536.7mm span) cost me USD 1031.64 including shipping but not including tax. A Voltex Type 1 (1500mm span) will cost me 130,000 yen for the wet lay-up carbon version while the Type 1S (1480mm span) is 145,000 yen. We have not added the shipping cost yet let alone tax.

The other factor that helped me with my decision was the fact that APR launched a new generation/update of the GTC-200 late last year. The new GTC-200 makes more downforce when compared to the original GTC-200 primarily due to a larger span, larger chord and more aggressive camber. You can refer to the new GTC-200's CFD data here. If you still want more downforce you can go for the larger wings in APR's 3D airfoil (GT) GTC range or try the new 2D airfoil GT range. Bear in mind aerodynamics is all about Balance so if you have big downforce acting on the rear of the car you will need equivalent downforce at the front to avoid terminal understeer.

After many email exchanges with Tony from APR, my GTC-200 arrived safe and sound @ my doorstep via FEDEX. I ordered the GTC-200 universal model albeit with some customizing (more on that below). Picture below of the packaging.

The white box contains two 12" x 12" (304.8mm x 304.8mm) flat cf sheets which I additionally ordered from APR. The plan is to cut this down to the size and shape I want to be used as the base for my wing.

The packaging was very well thought out and executed with everything wrapped with bubble wrap and also fine lint free paper like some lingerie :) Picture below of the inner packaging and the wing after unwrapping.

The cf flat sheets are also very nicely packaged and wrapped in similar fine paper.

APR claims that each GTC wing is made from lightweight and durable carbon fibre reinforced polymer (CFRP) composite and contain pre-pregnated woven carbon fibre sheets for superior strength and low weight. All CFRP airfoils are made using pre-pregnated composite manufacturing processes (i.e high temperature autoclave and vacuum bagging) in high quality billet aluminium moulds. My own assessment is that the wing is primarily made from FRP with a couple layers of prepreg cf for strength and aesthetics. The GTC-200 is also clear coated for protection against the elements. Close up of the wing and carbon weave. Perfect!

I specified a distance of 38" or 965.2mm between the two pedestals/bracket mounts. The bolts/studs for the mounting bases should hopefully fit in the holes on the boot's under frame else will have to do some cutting.

Top part of the mounting bracket/pedestal is already installed on the wing.

The wing side plates, lower mount brackets, base plates, fasteners, etc are in this box. Only the fasteners for the side plates are stainless steel. Mount brackets are 10mm 6061 billet aluminium alloy powdercoated flat (matte) black.

Close up of a side plate.

Apart from a one page install sheet, there is also a page on warranty terms and conditions and two colourful brochures. The decals are for the side plates.

My current boot lid has already been patched up once for mount holes from the once upon a time failed carbon Nismo spoiler/duckbill project and there is going to be another 4 more holes to patch up once I remove the Mine's wing. Probably better to get a virgin boot lid to mount the GTC-200. I am still undecided if I want to get a brand new boot lid or a used one from a JDM G10 Bluebird Sylphy.

APRil Aero Teaser

What do you think of this wing on a USDM B15 Sentra?

This wing is serious sh*t, made of pre-preg (dry) carbon fibre and produces real downforce with minimal drag. Ain't no rice here. CFD pixs courtesy of APR Performance.

The big problem as usual is the massive cost. More to follow..

15/16" Nabco RHD Non-ABS Brake Master Cylinder

The recent upgrade of my brake reservoir's cap got me recalling about a long overdue post. Remember I blogged about whether there were any 15/16" Nabco Right Hand Drive Non-ABS BMCs still available? Yes I know that was 3 years ago.

Well, the answer is YES! Bro Nicholas actually found some a long while back. Pictures below courtesy of the man himself.

From the second and third from top pictures you can see "BM44" on the BMC's outer casing on the right hand side. All Nissan BM44 cylinders are 15/16" (23.8mm). BM38 (mine) is 7/8" (22.2mm),  BM50 is 1" (25.4mm) and BM57 is 1 1/16" (26.99 or 27mm).

The proportioning valves which determine the ratio between the front and rear brake lines. Ending part number is 5M322. I do not know what the beginning part number is. Could be 46010.

In the end I decided not to get the larger BMC then due to two reasons with the first being the massive cost for what is a used unit. Secondly my Wilwoods are working well with my stock BMC with only slightly longer pedal travel. I might change my mind one of these days though and test the larger 15/16" BMC. Hopefully these are still available.

Brake Bits n Pieces

My Wilwood SL6R calipers are still doing fine (touch wood) but I got new o-ring seals just in case. Don't wanna wait till the current seals fail then only decide to get as the lead time is 2 weeks or so as the seals are shipped from the US assuming there is stock. Bought 2 sets of kits i.e. one kit per caliper. There are 6 o-rings per kit and each o-ring is designed specifically for the caliper and specific piston size which in my case is 2 seals each for 1.62", 1.12" and 1.12". Picture below of the seals.

Cost is USD 45 including shipping to Oregon in the US. O-ring is made of high strength rubber and designed to withstand the different formulations of today's regular and racing brake fluids. Picture below of the part number.

I might order some new (caliper) pistons in the near future. Circle Track has an excellent article on rebuilding a Wilwood Superlite caliper. You can read about it here.

I also got a new brake fluid reservoir cap from TCEAS. Nothing wrong with the current cap cept very dirty and hard to clean. I know I know.. I am just being anal here..

Picture below of the cap. Cost me a not insignificant RM 80.75 after discount. Made in Japan mah!

 

Installed on the car.

Need more (lots of) time to clean up the surrounding area. Can't replace everything :P

Kyo-El Leggdura Racing Lug Nuts

Got this for my Fit but like them so much I might get a set for Sharkie when I upgrade my wheels. At only ~ MYR 300 (9001 yen including shipping) for a set of 16 lug nuts including security socket from RHD Japan these are a steal. In comparison the Rays cost me  >RM 500. If you can get a set of Standard Length Rays for less than the Leggduras these are Not Genuine to put it bluntly. Made by the same oem manufacturer as the Rays Engineering Duralumin Lug Nuts and featuring the same lightweight A7075 T6 aluminium material. Weight @ 22 grammes per lug nut is even lighter than the equivalent Rays (24g).

Dimensions of the Leggdura Racing lug nut courtesy of Kyo-El's website.

Honda uses a different M12 X 1.5 mm thread pitch vs 1.25 mm for Nissan and Toyota. Picture below of me Leggduras. What colour do you expect? The brack anodizing is more glossy than the matt coloured Rays.

If you like bling, the Leggdura Racing lug nut is available in a choice of 7 colours!

But no neon colours unfortunately. 

Some of you will ask what will I be doing with my Rays Duralumin Long Type lug nuts? These are still for sale! Self poisoning also means the thought of titanium lug nuts is still simmering somewhere at the back of my mind. 

Wilwood Ultralite HPS 32 Vane Brake Rotor Finally Installed

More than a year just to install a pair of brake rotors? Even by my king of procrastination standard this sets a new precedent :) At one point I even bought a can of high temperature paint to paint the (unplated) rotors myself but eventually decided I wanted a new (properly plated) rotor. Took me quite a while to order one as I had to sell of my unplated set to help with the funding (of the new plated rotors). Luckily Bro Peter came to my rescue. As usual got royally sc*ewed by customs tax.You can read up more on the cost here. Picture below of the zinc plated rotor.

Not sure what this cut out at the side of the rotor is for. Balancing the rotor?

Part number still visible despite the plating.

The newly arrived rotors sat in my store room gathering dust for a couple months while I worked on other mod projects. Self poisoning set in and I decided I was gonna go the whole hog and ordered a set of ARP brake hat bolt kit. The bolts used on my Coleman Racing rotors are just plain aircraft grade stainless steel type. Remember, brake hat bolts should only be used once as they are stretched during install and subsequent heat cycles impacting their strength. I only need 16 sets of bolts + washers but the minimum quantity sold by ARP is 32 for a kit. Again Bro Peter came to the rescue reserving half my fasteners. Thanks Bro! Cost including shipping came up to USD 168.96. Picture below of the ARP kit.

Material is 8740 chrome moly steel and each bolt features an exclusive 12-point cap screw design. Each bolt is also drilled to permit safety wiring and is rated at 200K psi tensile strength. Here's how safety wiring looks like from Wilwood's website. Close up shot below including part number and size of the bolt. Like everything American, size is in British Imperial size or what the Americans call SAE.

Being non-metric gave me an excuse to buy a set of spanners from ACE.

But Tao already had a set of even better non-metric socket wrenches. I then also decided to order a new pair of Wilwood centre hats just in case. Picture below of my Wilwood centre alloy brake hat. Part number is 170-10200. Centre hat needs to be re-drilled for the Sentra's PCD 114.3 4 lug pattern. Cost me USD 375 for a pair of centre hats including shipping. Tax is another story :(

I also decided to weigh everything. The previous Coleman brake rotors + Wilwood centre hat + fasteners were about 6 kg+. Wilwood claims the HPS 32, part number 160-12206 weights 13.6 lbs or ~ 6.18 kg. Weight of the Wilwood alloy centre hat in picture below.

Weight of the total number of ARP fasteners per side.

This means total (rotor + centre hat + ARP fasteners) rotor weight is 6.181 + 0.721 + 0.116 = 7.018 kg which is heavier than the Coleman rotors but since I did not yet have a digital scale when I had these (Coleman) rotors I cannot say specifically how much heavier but should be in the range of 0.5 - 1kg heavier. 

After much fondling of the rotor and ancillaries, I proceeded to assemble everything. Again I decided to use Permatex High Temperature/Strength (Red) thread lock vs safety wiring. Have had no issues with the centre hat bolts coming loose despite tens of thousands of kms of driving using the Permatex so can vouch for its effectiveness. Picture below of the assembled rotor + centre hat + ARP brake hat fasteners. 

Close up of the lovely ARPs. Shame these can't be on display being in a place where the sun don't shine.

The brakes squeal quite a bit especially when cold so I bought the below from Hard Brakes to hopefully reduce/minimize the squeal.

The Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant is applied between the pad backing plate and the titanium heat shield shim. You can read up more on it here. Total time including assembling the rotors, cleaning and install was bout 2 hours. Tao did most of the spannering. Picture below of the installed rotor.

Took Sharkie for a drive/blast to bed in the new rotors. Happy to report no judder and less brake noise with little to no squeal. Brakes are now near perfect and the only area left to improve would be slight shorter brake pedal travel via a larger master cylinder. As usual my rims were coated with zinc dust during bedding. This (black dust) will eventually go away with more use/bedding. Picture below of the rotor post bed-in.

With the HPS 32 being a straight vane rotor I would expect the heat dissipation capability to be less than curve/directional vane rotors. I did inquire with Wilwood on a better rotor (increased number of vanes or directional vanes) for my size and spec but got the expected response "Unfortunately it will not be possible for us to make this custom rotor". Wilwood only has this rotor in slotted or plain faced version and the bling SRP cross-drilled rotors in the size (12.2" diameter 1.1" thick rotors) I want. Most of their trick rotors are at least 1.25" thick or in bigger diameters.  On hindsight I should have gotten a more "popular" sized rotor. More self poisoning at work?