Piping Art Part 2

My exhaust has been completed. Tonnka and GT Auto took only about three weeks to complete my exhaust, downpipe and associated intercooler piping. I would like to also thank Bro Mugil for all the assistance. Thanks Bro! Owe you big one! Now enjoy the art work.

Rear "N1" type exhaust muffler. Pardon the quality of the pictures. It was quite dark

Tip is downwards facing for the sleeper look. The last thing I want is to attract unwarranted attention with a drain pipe sized exhaust tip/outlet. Exhaust including hangers are 100% stainless steel.

Entire exhaust is fabricated by Tonnka. I would say quality is as good as the Japs.

 Rear muffler piping.

How do you run an N1 type rear muffler yet keep things relatively quiet? You run a super long resonator that's how.

Here's the weld quality on the resonator. Pardon all the dust. Didn't have time to clean things up before taking piccies.

Exhaust from the front. The black brace is my one year six month old brand new repainted matt black Ultra Racing 4 point lower arm bar which had been residing in my spare room all this while till a couple weeks back. Should considerably stiffen up the front flexi sub-frame.

Super sleeper. You wouldn't know what blew you away looking from behind.

Downpipe and manifold are off to Ceramico for ceramic coating. I am starting to wonder if Tonnka can replicate my exhaust in titanium? Phase Two maybe?

Decision Made on Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Sensor/Controller

Which will be the Innovate Motorsports LC-1. Same as Bro Mugil methinks.

The LC-1 is a complete wideband controller build into a sealed cable with same Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor and similar electronics as the MTX-L. You can even tune individual cylinders by using multiple LC-1 kits which will be 4 in the Slowtra's case. Gulp!

Piping Art

Picture of my downpipe and some of the new piping. You can see the CNC machined stainless steel GCG flange which will mate to the EFR turbine. A TiAL VC355 stainless steel V-band clamp does the locking/sealing job.

Two close up piccies of the lovely immaculate TIG welds.

Just look at the snail manifold! Almost a shame it will be ceramic coated black but this is better in the long run for thermal protection. Everything will turn yellow bronze after a while anyway. Downpipe will also be coated.

T25 sized flange to mate to the turbine section of the EFR 6258. Bolt holes are 40mm apart in height and 73mm apart in width.

The engine block exhaust flange. Almost went for "Nissan Slowtra" instead of "Nissan Sentra". Haha!

This is why I went to all the trouble of having the Slowtra delivered to Tonnka in Malacca for the exhaust and piping work. Top notch craftsmanship!

Oil Change Progress Sneak Peak

Turbine manifold and intercooler piping more or less completed. Manifold is full SUS304 stainless steel tubular construction. Welds look immaculate as per typical Tonnka excellent quality. Pardon the picture quality though as probably taken via h/phone. Thanks Larry!

The EFR 6258 is low mount unlike the more typical top mount and log manifold found in USDM B15 Sentras. I won't go into a debate here on which manifold type or configuration is "better". The turbine manifold is but one piece of the forced induction air pump jigsaw puzzle. If you are interested in theory and details of both types of manifolds click here. More details and pictures in due time. Exhaust is next and needless to say it will be ~3" internal diameter.

Innovate Motorsports MTX-L Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Sensor/Controller/Gauge

I have not decided on my wideband air fuel ratio (AFR) or O2/lambda sensor but it will be either the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 or MTX-L. Both use the famed Bosch LSU 4.2 5-wire wideband O2 sensor with similar electronics with the LC-1 having the electronics build into a sealed cable whereas the MTX-L has all the electronics in the gauge itself. I do not really need a separate air fuel ratio gauge with my AIM MXL Strada Icon dash capable of displaying air fuel ratio. The MTX-L is the same as the LC-1 but a couple hundred ringgit cheaper as the LC-1 comes in a kit with its own gauge. Go figure..

A proper wideband is critical for the Slowtra's tune and build as the stock narrow band O2 sensor is next to hopeless being only able to tell whether the a/f ratio is above or beyond stoichometric and does not give accurate readings elsewhere. A wideband on the other hand is good for measuring and deriving accurate air fuel ratios anywhere between 10:1 to 20:1 which is a range all modern engines operate within. MotoIQ has an excellent article explaining how narrow and widebands work.

This write up is on the MTX-L as I had initially decided on it only to be not so sure later. Blame the gauge.
Picture of the MTX-L box. The LC-1's box gives me a sense of déjà vu. All pictures were taken @ GT Auto while I slow stripped the MTX-L from its packaging.

Manual and CD-ROM with the software. Both the LC-1 and MTX-L are capable of datalogging via Innovate's Logworks application.

The Bosch LSU 4.2 5-wire wideband O2 sensor. The LSU 4.2 uses a wideband zirconium-dioxide oxygen sensor. Innovates uses a different approach known as Direct Digital to control its wideband O2 sensors. Innovate claims Direct Digital results in a faster response time and improved accuracy over conventional control methods. If you want to use back your stock ECU and just replace the O2 sensor,  Innovate is capable of simulating the operation of a narrow band O2 sensor. Click here to learn how to.

All the electronics and controls are build into the gauge itself. Innovate provides both a black and white face plate and bezel which are interchangeable. Picture below shows black bezel and black faceplate that comes standard. Takes a couple minutes max to swap faceplates and/or bezels.

The Slowtra's new exhaust and associated snail piping are currently being lovingly fabricated and the decision (on which wideband) will be made in due time.

Oil Change Progress

Engine and gearbox is in.

Thinking to get a new gearbox side and end cover. Dip stick is broken so purchased replacement along with a bottom engine mount.

Long driveshaft installed with no issues. Short driveshaft appears 1-2" shorter. WTF! at this point. Need to check with Greg but he's on holiday till next week :( Picture below of the short driveshaft test fitted. Wheel hubs and bearings have also been installed. Plug below the driveshaft is the gearbox oil drain plug.

The gear selector rods installed. Gave the Slowtra's underside a good dose of WD40 cleaning right after taking the pictures. Looks pretty good now or at least better than the pictures.

Bought some Turbosmart Turboseal Murray constant tension clamps for the intercooler piping. The last thing I want is some cheapa*s clamps working loose and cause an engine issue. The clamp is full stainless steel in construction. A constant tension stainless steel worm gear clamp is designed to compensate for the effects of thermal cycling and/or compression. The convoluted spring action outer band solves this problem and features a unique inner band profile to provide superior sealing pressure via its two raise ribs and the chamfered edges eliminate damage to the hose when tightened. Murray's unique "Dual Bead Shield" concentrates band sealing pressure, increasing performance up to 30% compared to standard smooth liners. Picture of the 2.5" clamp in packaging. Part number is TS-HCT-M075 (2.5" to 3.375" or 64-86mm diameter). The clamps are sold in pairs and a pair will set you back >RM66 not including shipping costs. Not cheap but well worth the money if you asked me.

Two close up pixs of the clamp.

Here's how the clamps look like fitted to the Prodrive Impreza WRC 2007.

Nearly ready to do the turbo, intercooler and exhaust piping. As mentioned before this will be a Tonnka project.

Oil Change

They say a picture tells a thousand words...

I'll leave you to decipher what the thousand words are :)

RS5F70A Stripped!

Delivered the Slowtra to GT Auto over the weekend and the first thing I saw as I walked in was my disassembled and cleaned gearbox awaiting my Nismo LSD. Picture below of bellhousing, gearbox casing and final drive ring gear/crown wheel.

Close up of the nicely clean bellhousing.

The gears. No time nor budget to WPC treat the gears hence will be reassembled back as-is. Toby mentioned the gears look a bit weak so maybe some PAR or Pfitzner (PPG) gearsets in the future when the budget's avail. Toby will also fabricate a shorter stainless braided clutch hose for me.

Another pix.

Stock open diff which will be replaced by the Nismo Mechanical LSD. Needs new side bearings which Toby promptly found for me. Thanks Bro!

Final drive ring gear/crown wheel. Counted 70 teeth. Pinion is 18 teeth. This means Final Drive Ratio 70/18 or 3.888888888888889. Bolts including the new ones I bought are M10 (10mm). LSD requires M12 (12mm). This means I need to source new bolts and do some work on the final drive/crown wheel gear to fit. Bummer!

Brand new oem driveshaft or axle assembly. The short one. You will also need the long driveshaft. Without a proper limited slip differential and other trick drivetrain engineering this is what causes torque steer for FF cars due to different driveshaft lengths.

This end bolts to the gearbox/diff.

While the other end bolts to front knuckle or upright. Funky looking ring with gear looking teeth is for the ABS sensor to read... Which the Slowtra does not need.

Stock manual gearbox is off the car as we speak. Anyone interested in an excellent condition pre-loved MYDM N16 stock 30A manual gearbox that has only seen the best Redline MT90 gear oil please shoot me an email.

More Bits n Pieces

More parts for the upcoming build. Me Nismo LSD complete with Nismo certificate and user manual. Ony in Japanese. For a relatively small component the LSD is really heavy.

Brand new Nissan final drive/ring gear/crown wheel bolts. You will need eight for the RS5F70A final drive. Picture here should give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Water coolant channel plugs for the QG. Otherwise known in the US as "freeze" plugs.

Coolant drain plug on engine block. I'm taking the precaution to replace parts where I can. Makes no sense to run into issues later or blow my engine due to a failure of a part costing a couple ringgit.

 

Titanium fasteners for my brake caliper adapter. Got these from Racebolts which is much cheaper than what I was quoted by Pro-Bolt.

Couldn't quite managed to carry me driveshafts home. My arms are still aching. More on this later.

Original Nissan aluminium faced brake and clutch pedal pads from a Z33 for that sporty look. If my research is correct these are plug and pray.

Why no accelerator pedal pad? Well this is not plug and play for our "ancient" throttle cable N16. Picture below of the Z33 electronic accelerator pedal assembly. Picture courtesy of Greg/G-Spec.

Here's how the pedal looks like together with accelerator pedal pad on a Nismo 380RS.

I frankly have no idea if this works on newer N16/B15/G10s with an electronic throttle. Of course all MYDM N16s are throttle cable only regardless of Pre-FL, FL1, FL2, FL2+. If I can't find any matching accelerator pedal pads these are probably going to be for sale while I get myself some Sparco pedals.

More ARP stuff

Got more ARP fasteners when I was in the US. Picture below of shiny ARP 300 series stainless steel stud kit for exhaust/turbo manifold. The stud kit is rated to 170K psi tensile strength. Supplied nut is 12-point.

Next is the ARP Pro Series bolt kit to secure flywheel to crankshaft. The QG18 crank/flywheel uses 6 bolts. Picture below of ARP vs stock.

ARP offer two styles of flywheel bolts: High Performance and Pro Series. Both are forged from aerospace grade alloy and heat treated prior to thread rolling and machining. Both feature an exclusive 12-point head design and larger than stock shank diameter for increased strength and improved flywheel register. The High Performance Series is rated at 180K psi tensile strength while the premium grade Pro Series, originally developed for Nascar competition has a 200K psi rating.

The Slowtra is very close to going in for its "oil change" job. Expect a dearth of articles then unless Toby and Chew Soon can take regular yummy pixs of the progress.