The QG18DE requires 10 (there are 12 head bolts but the other 2 is non-load bearing) M10 (Metric 10mm) head studs. Price came up to 470+ smackers not including shipping and any tax for 10 head studs + same quantity washers and 12-point nuts. The reason the price is so reasonable is because I took the closest equivalent off the shelf head stud versus commencing the design and manufacture of custom head studs which would have cost me thousands of hard earned ringgit. Many thousands.
Per Greg (my supplier and boss of GSpec Performance) my head studs are same as the KA24DE. Here's another piccie. If you think you're going to make big power (>500hp) perhaps you can drill the block and try 11mm or larger diameter head studs. I'll stick to 10mm since I'm not.
Picture below shows the stock head bolt versus the ARP head stud assembled with washer and nut. The ARP head stud is about 12mm longer but I've confirmed with Toby there will not be any clearance issues.
As you can see from the picture above the thread length is the same compared with the incorrect head stud. Am working on ARP main bolts now which I'm hoping no praying will not be as problematic. Also need to order some fastener assembly lubricant.
5 comments:
Hello Andrew,
For the remaining 2 head bolts that are not load bearing did you just use factory head bolts or did you use ARP for these as well? Any information would be appreciated about to do a head gasket job and just picked up a set of ARP studs.
Thanks in advance.
Ryan
I used stock Nissan QG bolts.
Thanks for the info Andrew, and I have one more question. Did you torque the head bolts to the ARP 80FT-LB or did you torque to the factory specs?
Thanks in Advance,
Ryan
Hello Ryan,
Always use ARP torque specs. ARP has different spec depending on fastener material. I also use ARP fastener lube.
From ARP's catalog - assuming ARP2000 material, torque spec for a 10mm bolt with ARP lube is 70lb ft
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