Oil Change Progress Part 7

Bro Mugil, Peter and Nick all choosed to drop by GT Auto on the same day and gave me a good update on the progress of the work. Needless to say my WhatsApp and email were very much alive that day. Thanks Bros!

My AIM MXL Strada dash has been installed. Workmanship is top notch as per Toby and GT Auto's usual excellent standards. I can spend a long long time looking and admiring pictures of my dash. I know, I know, I have a problem :) Sexy knee in the top pix belongs to Bro Nick methinks.

Closer up.

In use. Cluster lid and other dash trim has not been installed back at this point.

Because Toby is having a problem configuring the gear indicator. The MXL is able to display gear in use/selected gear and has a simple procedure for it to learn the gears using rpm and speed channels. Procedure is as follows:

1. Once gear calculation has been activated a track lap has to be run. During the lap follow carefully these instructions
2. Engage all gears
3. Keep each gear engaged for at least 5 seconds
4. Drive smoothly, avoiding sudden accelerations, tyre slip or wheel blocks when braking; let PM grow gradually and keep braking as long as possible according to track and traffic conditions; if using a non driving wheel speed as reference pay particular attention to your driving style. Reduce as much as you can sliding between driving and driven wheels.
5. Go to pit lane (or your workshop/house) at the end of the lap and power engine off. Absolutely avoid revs while the vehicle is moving. Avoid running pit lane with the clutch pedal engaged. You can press the accelerator pedal before switching engine offif needed but with the vehicle completely stopped.

Sounds easy and simple right? Unfortunately the calibration is not working as mentioned and there is no ability to input gear ratio, etc into the MXL. Sigh! Anybody with experience on the AIM MXL Strada/Pista can help here? Neel (my dash supplier) is doing his best to help but issue is further complicated by the different time zones involved. Sigh.. The "RUNNING GEAR CAL" on the dash display is giving me nightmares.

My Mishimoto radiator was also getting installed.

As expected the Samco radiator hose meant for the QG18 does not fit the radiator. I have already explained why in my previous post. More mod and fabrication work here. Reservoir hose also needs to be upraded to a Samco silicone or equivalent.

My poor stock radiator looking all forlorn being abandoned after 6+ years of faithful service. It (the radiator) is still working well despite more than 1 bar of boost but I really need the additional safety margin of a radiator with increased cooling capacity.

The Mishi radiator cap will be ditched as the quality is suspect from what I read on the forums and the net. Bro Peter helped bring back for me a Cosworth radiator cap. I bought the 1.3 bar unit. Thanks Bro! Not that anything is wrong with my Nismo radiator cap but I fancy a change after a couple years. Pictures of my Cosworth radiator cap. Wish Cosworth made more parts for my engine :(

Bro Peter also got me the AEM water/methanol injection filter. The kit AEM sells does not come with this filter. This is additional insurance as the filter helps in the long run allowing a cleaner flow of water/methanol into the engine protecting the water/methanol injection filter pump as well as the engine internals. AEM claims the filter is able to filter particulates as small as 40 microns.

I have no idea why parts of the instruction manual are wet. Peter, what have you been doing?

I also ordered a pair of Recaro SR4s complete with rails from H Performance. The seats are ready but will only be fitted at the very last. More to follow.

Got a Bigger Lighter?

Boost was increased to 1.3 bar yesterday and the water/methanol injection activated. Resultant dyno with and without meth injection.

Why only a 7hp increase at the wheels with methanol injection and the squiggly lines at the top? Well the top end is breaking up due to my stock ignition and Hitachi coil-on plugs (COP) reaching its limit and struggling to keep up. At only 1.3 bar :( I need a better CDI and COPs. For CDI am thinking of the Autronic unit but cost is quite prohibitive. The COP is also going to be a problem. Okada Projects is not interested. AEM Pencil Coils are unreliable from what I read on the Net. And either option is not cheap. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyone have experience the AEM Pencil Coils or with T.M. Works?

Alternative of course is to temporarily stop the development work at this point. 301 hp at the wheels already translates to 331 hp at the engine assuming a 10% transmission loss. Torque is an equally monstrous 40 kg/m or 392.266 Nm at the wheels. This is much more than sufficient for daily driving with the Shark already feeling very fast at 30hp less. Going more than this is going to result in a bigger hole in an already near empty wallet. Decisions, decisions....

Hello World

Toby sent me these cheeky pictures.

And a video. Pardon the small size. The original video sent to me was rotated 90 degrees meaning one had to turn one's head likewise to correct the orientation when looking at the video. I corrected the orientation but unfortunately size became smaller.

More to follow..

Oil Change Progress Part 6 - Reincarnation

Its been more than a month since I've had time to visit GT Auto to catch up on the progress of the build. In summary the work is near the finishing line. First thing I saw when I arrived was the Slowtra parked outside GT Auto.

Here's pictures of the engine bay. Water on my battery's top surface came from my bonnet as Slowtra just had a good wash.

The oil catch can is connected and Toby is using a ZeroOne unit. Would have preferred the original Cusco I used on the SP rather than a copy but I'll settle with this for the time being as the oct has been modified to accept AN fittings. Need to ditch the ricey ZeroOne logo though. Picture below of the Full Race EFR BOV cover installed on my snail.

Here's a picture from under the car. Which one is the Bosch LSU 4.2 5 wire wideband O2/lambda sensor?

I also spied my Mishimoto radiator awaiting to be installed. The radiator is actually for a USDM B15 Sentra Spec-V with QR25DE engine but the only different is the diameter of the intet/outlet. QG18DE inlet/outlet is 1 1/8" or 29mm whereas QR25DE is 1 3/8" is 35mm. This means the Mishi rad will need some modding to fit the QG18DE radiator hoses. It's either that or I mod the water/coolant inlet/outlet on the engine side.

The Mishi rad is dual row and core thickness is 1.42" or 36mm. Them Americans like everything in imperial inches and I have to make my own conversion. Quality is pretty decent cept the radiator cap. Will be ditching that but still deciding if I want to use my Nismo radiator cap or get a Cosworth equivalent. Clearance to the snail will be a major issue so I also bought the Mishimoto dual slimline fan aluminium shroud kit. Unfortunately the fans looks pretty marginal in build, performance and quality. According to Toby I currently don't have any high temperature/overheating issue with my stock radiator and fans but will have one if I install these. Below are pixs of the fan.

Here's how the 12" (305mm) Mishi fans compare to stock. Look at the difference in size. If I go for slimline fans guess it'll have to be better sized, build and performance SPAL fans.

I also saw work being done on my dash. There was a delay as it took quite some time to source for a used meter panel which will be used to fit my AIM dash.

The plate of pre-preg carbon being cut up to accomodate the AIM MXL Strada dash is from Bro Mugil. Thanks Bro! Did I tell you before it is a real PITA to cut real pre-preg carbon? The only thing worse is carbon kevlar which will wear out your cutting blade in no time.

My water/methanol injection kit has also been installed. I am using an AEM system. You can read up on the merits of water/methanol injection in MotoIQ's excellent article. AEM uses a machined billet aluminium injector which comes with 3 interchangeable nozzles to cover a wide range of potential horsepower levels. The injector features an integral check valve that prevents terminal engine failure caused by unintended fluid flow. Below is a picture of the AEM's injector installed just before the throttle body.

I am using the AEM's own boost referenced progressive controller rather than have it just triggered on/off by my Autronic SM4 ECU. This is because basing an injection progressively on manifold pressure allows for correct amount of water/methanol to be injected at all points along the engine's power curve. At lower boost levels where only a small amount of water/methanol is needed, the controller drives the pump at low speed delivering the necessary flow rate. As boost increases, along with intake air temps increasing as well, the controller increases the pump speed allowing for more water/methanol to be injected into the engine,helping to cool and control combustion where it is needed most. The controller has a warning light that will activate if it detects a fault i.e. broken wire/bad connection, controller malfunctions or system runs out of water/methanol. Sorry forgot to take a picture of the warning LED light mounted on my dash and the progressive controller. Will take those is due time.

Picture below of the AEM's pump and 1 gallon water/methanol tank installed in the Slowtra's boot. An optional (read buy separately) 5 gallon tank is also available.

AEM's latest heavy duty recirculation pump is rated to 200psi. The earlier pump is rated to only 150psi. The new pump is also much quieter in operation compared to older switched-style pumps. AEM has designed the pump with Santoprene diaphragm and EPDM seals to withstand methanol (alcohol's) harhness and corrosion characteristics. The one gallon fluid tank comes fitted with a pre-installed low level switch to notify you when you are running out of water/methanol. 1 US gallon is equivalent to 3.78541178 liters btw. The kit does not come with a filter which I'm debating whether to get. AEM sells an in-line filter that uses a micronic mesh screen to filter particulates as small as 40 microns. This allows a cleaner flow of water/methanol into the engine, not only protecting the internals of the engine itself but also the working parts of the AEM water/methanol injection pump. All the install, set up and tuning is and will be done by Toby and GT Auto.

Me buddies have decided to call the Slowtra "Shark" after this post and the nick kinda stuck from then on. Guess I'll be calling me car the Shark or Sharkie moving forward :) Toby casually threw me the Shark's key after it had a good bath and I got into it along with Toby and another buddy Peter in the back seat to find out if the driving experience lives up to the new nick.

Happily potted around Sunway and the engine felt very tractable and smooth. Think I can drive all day like this and it feels like a 2 litre+ NA compact car with manual gearbox. Did not feel any lag or flat spots during my short drive. Had a couple opportunities to floor the throttle in 2nd and 3rd gear and boy what a power rush!!! Yeeha!!! Damn bloody shiok this EFR 6258 snail! The Shark felt very together and the Nismo LSD did it's best though wheelspins were unavoidable although you don't get that uncontrollable turbo rush and chassis tying itself into knots. The Nismo also felt quieter and less harsh in operation compared to the Kaaz LSD I used previously on the SP. However like any typical 1.5 way LSD go into turns/corners too slow and steady and the LSD will still cause understeer and steering pushback. Nothing too bad though and manageable on daily driving basis. The Clutchmasters FX-400 6 puck clutch with lightweight flywheel proved to be even more surprising with very minimal to no judder and a possibly lighter clutch pedal feel than the Exedy I was using previously. I say possibly as I haven't driven with a car with the Exedy in more than 6 years.

The Shark is close to its homecoming. Still need to sort out a few stuff including proper front seats that will provide proper hold and support during hard cornering.

Garage Sale Stop Press!

My QG16DE engine is No longer for sale at this point as it doesn't have any cams. The cams have been removed and sent for development work. Cylinder head will be next. My apologies to those interested. More details on the development work to follow.

I have decided to put my stock radiator plus dual fan assembly up for sale.

And not forgetting, my front 2 seats are also for sale. These are upholstered with imported full DK leather. Pictures in my original DK post. I am asking a very low price (to me at least) so come get it.

A Big Toothy Grin

Kinda reminds me of a pet alligator or shark. The Slowtra with front bumper back on and awaiting more work. Thanks Bro Nick for the picture.

Garage Sale

I am willing to part with the following if the offer price is reasonable. For those seriously interested pls drop me an email. Low ballers will not be entertained. Please do not waste yours and my time.

1. QG16DE engine kosong + inlet manifold fuel rail and injectors + throttle body
2. QG engine cover
3. QG16DE ECU (for manual transmission)
4. Stock manual gearbox
5. K&N drop-in panel filter
6. Stock airbox and MAF sensor
7. Stock driveshafts (manual gearbox)
8. Stock fuel pump
9. Stock exhaust including manifold + cat
10. Stock original Nissan foglights
11. Stock front brake calipers + rotors/discs
12. Assorted Rays Engineering Duralumin lugnuts (Black) - I have 16 new still in box and 16 used.
13. Stock steering wheel with SRS airbag

Stop Press! Items #5, 10 & 12 have been sold. 

Getting Better by the Day

More updates from Toby today.

Boost was slightly increased to 1.1 bar and the Slowtra registered 271 hp at the wheels and 298 hp at the crank/engine. Torque is equally impressive @ 34.19 kg/m or 335.4 Nm. For those of you who can remember the Slowtra's power output at the stock engine when I last dynoed it was 106 hp and 150 Nm torque. This means the spankin new not fully break-in engine is now making close to 300% more hp and > 200% more torque. ... And there's more power to be had. Should I still call my car "The Slowtra"?

Speechless!!!

Got this from Toby earlier today. 245 hp and 298 Nm of torque at only 0.86 bar of boost.

This is just with standard RON 97 fuel, a run in map, engine rev limited to only 6000rpm and with no water injection. Oh and power is measured at the wheels. This means 245 hp translates to 269.5 hp at the crank/engine assuming a transmission loss of 10% is factored in the calculation. Imagine what 1.2 to 1.5 bar of boost will result in. I believe 300 hp will be a walk in the park once the engine is fully run in and thoroughly power mapped by Toby with water injection. Vroooooooooooooooom!

It's Alive!!!

Next steps include tuning a proper idle and run-in map. That's all I can say at this point :) Stay tuned...

Brain Transplant

The main flying lead harness for the Slowtra's new brain/ECU is finally ready. This connects the new ECU to the car's wiring harness. This method is easier without having to rewire the entire car.

As mentioned previously the ECU I am using is the latest Autronic SM4 version 1.09. The SM4 fits nicely into the stock ecu box/cover.

The SM4 comes with its own build in 3.4 bar MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor so the stock performance limiting mass airflow sensor is no longer required. Going higher than low boost would have maxed out the crappy stock MAF sensor anyway. Specifications for the SM4 can be found in the excellent MRM Racing (Autronic's Swedish Distributor) website. Still waiting for Autronic to update their own not so excellent website.  Needless to say the SM4 is a fully programmable ECU that does not require the stock ECU unlike piggyback fuel and ignition controllers like the Greddy E-Damage.. sorry E-Manage. Comparable equivalent ECUs include the Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 and Motec M400. Can't go wrong with either and the ability of the tuner or person doing the install and ECU mapping is more important likewise aftersales technical support. Some notable features that lead me to decide on the SM4 include:

• Excellent resolution i.e. fuel and ignition tables have 32 rpm and 16 load site axis. Both load and rpm sites are freely selectable.
• Transient settings for precise fuel delivery through rpm and load range.
• Individual cylinder trim for fuel and ignition.
• Ability to self (auto) tune.
• Multiple boost control strategies including both internal and external wastegate snails. No need to buy a separate boost controller. Ability to alter boost according to selected gear.
• Launch Control (two step rev limiter based on vehicle speed).
• Flatshift (change gears without clutch at WOT using standard gearbox).
• Traction control with different settings for dry and wet weather.
• Antilag (keep turbocharger on boost during gear changes) with turbo cool down function - Don't require this for a road car but if one day I turn the Slowtra into an all out kereta perang..
• Ability to data log.
• Compatible with my AIM MXL Strada dash .
• Master Tuner Toby experienced with installing and mapping this ECU.

The Slowtra is very very close to being started with its new brain. A problem with the trigger pattern resulting in only 1 cylinder firing has hopefully been rectified and the start should commence anytime now.

More Goodies!

This just arrived after more than 3 months. Can someone tell me what it is?

Here's a hint :)

Gearbox Goodies

Some ancillary parts I ordered for the 70A gearbox many many moons ago which finally arrived only after the gearbox had been fully assembled and mated to the engine on the Slowtra. Sigh :( All parts are from Japan and on back order hence the long lead time of more than two months.

Side cover and gasket

Rear cover. I also ordered the O-ring for the rear cover but it remains on back-order.

Brand spankin new reverse idler gear shaft, snap ring and O-ring seal.

Close up of the reverse idler gear shaft.

You can see the condition of the ones that came with my gearbox. Still perfectly usable but I wasn't too happy with the aesthetics especially the rusty reverse idler gear shaft. You know me la. Now need to convince Toby to install.

Oil Change Progress Part 5

Dropped by GT Auto to hand deliver some parts and as expected from the recent pictures Toby sent me most of the plumbing work is completed. Pictures below of the Slowtra.

Close up of the installed Spearco intercooler.

Intercooler piping left hand (passenger) side.

This is supposed to connect to the still stock throttle body but I am short of two Murray constant tension clamps which are currently stuck at Customs. Why are my friendly local Customs still interested to tax me on another couple pieces of metal? Sigh... :(

Engine bay piccies.

Stock steel bolts on cam cover replaced with Pro-Bolt black anodized aluminium alloy items. Did I tell you the stock cam cover is plastic? Damn! Wonder if Series Two (2nd Gen) QG18DE aluminium alloy cam cover fits my first gen.

Tomei FPR, etc fully fitted with AN fittings.

Am speechless! Forgot to check with Toby why the throttle body coolant piping needs to be connected. Stock is blanked off. Air filter piping connects to the stock mount brackets.

This no longer required heavy steel bracket was removed from the left hand side of the engine. The wiring harness and engine cover mounts to it but I no longer run the engine cover. There are two more heavy steel brackets for the engine cover still to be removed. I believe all three brackets will weight more than a kilo which might not be much on car weighing 1200+ kilos but every little bit counts.

Z33 350Z clutch and brake pedal pads installed. Installation involved removing the stock pedal pads with your hands and reverse the process with the Z33 pedal pads. It was as "plug and play" as you get. The accelerator "gas" pedal will most probably be from Ultimate Pedals from the US.

ECU custom wiring harness is proving a royal PITA to sort out. As expected the wiring diagrams I sourced from the US/EU/UK domestic models are quite different from the Bolehland N16. Dash also yet to be sorted out.

The engine was test fired up by Toby with Jack, Mugil and of course myself witnessing the historing event. Can still idle with the stock ECU and MAF albeit a tad lumpy with the big injectors :) Getting ever closer to the finish line...

Oil Change Progress Part 4

I was debating whether to call this update Part 3a as opposed to Part 4. It's actually only a minor update. My intercooler piping is fully connected and am really chuffed with the photo updates Toby sent me. Looks really good!

Here's the right side There are two Turbosmart Murray constant tension clamps on each side of the intercooler. Only bought 10 clamps and will need to order 4 more. All elbow/coupler/joiner hoses are silicone polymer Samco Sport in classic blue.

The left side.

In addition my Full-Race EFR BOV cover arrived. The stock EFR BOV cover is plastic whereas the Full-Race equivalent is CNC machined 6061-T6 aluminium and hard anodized black. Aluminium is definitely stronger than plastic. The Full-Race EFR BOV cover is also threaded and comes with a 90 degree barb fitting to make it easy to plumb in tight constraints. I am planning to replace this with an AN equivalent. The thread on the BOV cover is 1/8 NPT. The barb is 7/32" ID and should also be equivalent to an AN Dash 4. Pictures of the BOV cover below plus the provided 90 degree barb fitting. Top.

Bottom. Finishing and anodizing is immaculate.

Here's an old picture of my EFR 6258 showing the stock beige coloured plastic BOV cover.

Should I replace the bolts on the BOV cover with Ti equivalents?